The New Yorker posted a terrific little story by Helen Rosner over the weekend that induced the kind of hunger pangs that, to my mind, ought to be the goal of any retailer that wants to be food-forward. Here’s how she sets it up:
“I think of myself as a morning person, but, still, I groaned and grumbled as I rolled out of bed before sunrise on a recent morning just to get breakfast. My destination was the Screen Door, a tiny ice-cream shop in Brooklyn’s Greenpoint that is currently serving as the host of Border Town, a peripatetic breakfast-taco pop-up.
“A friend had advised me to get there at eight o’clock on the dot, the moment the door opens, to insure that I absolutely, certainly, without fail would be guaranteed a taste of the chef Jorge Aguilar’s frijoles taco – a modest smear of refried beans and a bit of melted cheese on a blistery-fresh flour tortilla – which tends to sell out fast.
“Some beans are worth waking up for. Aguilar’s frijoles refritos are made with pinto beans and lard in a two-day process: one for cooking the dried beans, another for stewing them down. The result is rich, earthy, and sweet. But the real star of the frijoles tacos are the tortillas, which Aguilar rolls out fresh as the orders come in.
“When you arrive at the front of the line – and there will almost certainly be a line – a cook will grab a just-made tortilla from a pile, scoop in a portion of refried beans and sprinkle on some cheese, then roll it up and let it all melt together into a gooey parcel of savoriness and warmth. Two or three make for an ideal breakfast.”
The tortillas, she writes, are special because they are made “using an ultra-fine, ultra-soft Sonoran wheat flour that his parents help him source from Mexico.”
You can read the entire story here, but be prepared – if you are anything like me, you are going to end up hungry and yearning for something served in a fresh tortilla.
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